Monday, March 15, 2010

I ate a slug...donut: Katafigi (Refuge) Cafe, Stemnitsa - GR

The village before Dimistana is too small for even it's own Wikipedia page. Stemnista gets its only Wiki nod from the Trikolonoi municipality. You might never visit this small mountain village in the central Peloponnese in your lifetime, but at least you have now heard of it. We (1 depressed Italian, 1 Greek Renaissance lady, her Greek engineer boyfriend, and moi) ducked into Stemnitsa one rainy afternoon after a long hike. As we scurried around the small village under one umbrella a signed called out to us:

Loukomades: the universal sign for donuts
 The come hither sign beckoning us for traditional donuts and katafigi or refuge made us keep walking.

And walking.
Until we saw a yellow door.
That's not it, keep walking.
Almost there. These hollow tree stumps have light bulbs inside. Anyone have spare logs?
OK, I'll stop teasing. We finally made it to the entrance. I'm now ready for the LA marathon.
 All this walking warranted a serious loukomades fest. We ordered up a round a double ellenikos (Greek Coffee), Yolanda ensuring they would be made in traditional fashion using a small pot specifically designed for making Greek coffee also known as a briki instead of machine. She didn't think they used those machines in the village, but made sure any way. You don't mess with Greeks and our coffees. Our waiter scoffed at the idea of a machine made Greek coffee, oh you pathetic city dwellers you!
Low and behold, the humble Greek Coffee
And our magical dough balls appeared: one in traditional fashion adorned in honey and the other dressed in merenda aka Greek nutella
Loukomades are made to order. They arrive hot melting their respective condiments, doughy on the inside and crispy fried on the outside, flaked with almond bits.
 I thought it couldn't get any better than this until I found a slug in my donuts, and ate it. Top that Zimmerman.
Katafigi Cafe
Stemnitsa, Greece

6 comments:

Diana said...

Hahaha love it! I totally thought you ate a slug and was going to yell at you for breaking your veganism! ;)

H. C. said...

those look divine (yes, even the sluggy one); and super-curious about real Greek coffee too (my experiences with them in L.A. so far have been less-than-impressive, maybe because they are indeed machine made) Anywhere that serves 'em in small pots?

Peter M said...

Anna, it's a sine to make Greek coffee with an espresso machine. It happened to me once at the snack bar at the old museum in Athens...I returned and got a frappe.

Thank God for little cafes like this one and sexy Loukoumades.

Anna A. said...

Diana - take it ease, TALF, it was a pre-lenten noshing! Besides, slugs and snails are lent friendly =)

H.C. - Oh, so sorry you haven't had a good Greek coffee in LA. I can certainly make you one!

Peter - Hah yeah. I can see the old museio cafe whipping up ellenikos apo to maxina. Maybe you will make it to Stemnitsa during your tour?

H. C. said...

Ha, I'm def. down for that! Let me know if you're ever doing something potluck-y and contributing your Greek coffee!

Anna A. said...

H.C. For sure! I have a huge back I just brought back from the motherland and a briki so I can bring it wherever!